The bay at dusk through an open shutter: green hills, a yacht at anchor, still water

A house wherethe sea keeps the hours.

Eleven rooms in a customs house of 1908, on the harbour wall of Marina di Serra.

Shutters open at seven. The boats come in at half past nine. Nothing else in the house keeps a schedule.

  • Eleven rooms, six over the open sea
  • Breakfast until noon under the vaults
  • Four minutes on foot from the ferry

A customs house of 1908

For sixty years the Dogana weighed salt, wine and almonds at the end of the mole. We kept its vaults, its ledger shelves and the iron rings in the wall, and opened eleven rooms above them.

Stone houses with tall chimneys on the harbour wall, boats moored in calm blue water
1908 · Built at the end of the mole to weigh what the boats carried
The vaulted ground floor: two arched wooden doors in a plastered stone wall, terracotta tiles, a patch of sun
1961 · Closed when the lorries took the coast road
A small barred window in a lime-plastered wall beside a terracotta parapet in low sun
2019 · Restored by masons from the town in lime and old roof tiles

The walls are ninety centimetres thick, which is why the rooms stay cool in August without machines. The floors are the terracotta tiles of the original roof, turned over and laid again.

The ledger shelves on the ground floor now hold the books guests leave behind, and the old weighing tower is the one suite. Everything else is linen, lime and the light off the water.

Eleven rooms, no two alike, in three kinds of quiet.

The sea rooms, the harbour rooms, the tower.

A long window seat with white cushions under a wide window onto the open sea at dusk

Sea rooms · six

A window seat as wide as the room and the open sea in it, from the pillows to the horizon. Shutters, linen, a shower in lime plaster.

Size
24–30 m²
Sleeps
Two
From
€240 a night
Ask for a sea room
A reading corner with a blue armchair, framed photographs and an arched window onto the water

Harbour rooms · four

Arched windows over the basin and the boats, a reading corner, floors laid from the old roof. The livelier side of the house until about ten at night.

Size
22–26 m²
Sleeps
Two, or three
From
€190 a night
Ask for a harbour room
A round stone bath under a skylight between walls of irregular limestone

The tower · one suite

The old weighing tower on two floors: a bed under the beams upstairs, a stone bath under the skylight below. Breakfast is carried up.

Size
48 m²
Sleeps
Two
From
€420 a night
Ask for the tower

A day kept by the sea

  1. The shutters open

    The first ferry sounds once. Coffee, ricotta and bread from the oven on Via del Forno wait under the vaults until noon; nobody asks when you came down.

  2. The boats come in

    The Maria Grazia ties up under the sea rooms. Rosa walks the mole with a crate and decides what lunch will be.

  3. Down the ladder

    An iron ladder goes down the harbour wall into eight metres of clear water. Towels wait on the landing; the sea is warmest at noon.

  4. The long hour

    Awnings come down, the town closes and so does the house. A hammock on the roof, a book from the ledger shelves, the key to the cold cellar.

  5. The wind turns

    The ostro drops at dusk and the swallows come out. Cold white wine on the roof, olives from the hill behind the town.

  6. Lamps on the mole

    Eleven tables along the harbour wall, one lamp each. The kitchen closes when the last table is ready to go, not before.

A wooden table and chairs on a terrace above the sea, waves breaking on the beach below

Lunch is what the boats bring

The kitchen writes the menu at ten, after the mole. Breakfast is long, dinner is late, and both keep the house's own time.

  1. Breakfast · 7:30 to noon

    Ricotta and figs, bread from Via del Forno, eggs however you ask, coffee until you stop.

  2. Lunch · from 13:00

    Two dishes from the morning's catch, a salad from the hill, bread for the oil.

  3. Aperitivo · 18:30, roof

    Cold white from the cellar, olives, courgette flowers fried to order.

  4. Dinner · 20:30, the mole

    Four courses, one sitting, eleven tables. Guests of the house first; the harbour may book what is left.

A whole roasted fish with lemon slices, potatoes and grilled courgette
A cup of coffee and a small vase of daisies on a breakfast table

“I write the menu when I know what came in. Before ten, nobody can tell you what lunch is.”

Rosa Calò, cook
Book a table on the mole

Out from the mole

A white wooden fishing boat moored in clear turquoise water below a rocky shore

10:00 · daily, May to October

The boat to the coves

Davide takes the house's wooden gozzo along the cliffs to three coves you cannot reach on foot. Back for lunch, or not.

A steel ladder down a rocky shore into clear rippling water

Any hour · at the foot of the house

The ladder in the wall

Eight metres of clear water under the sea rooms. Towels, a cold shower and a bench on the landing.

A small orange lighthouse on a green headland above a grey sea

17:00 · Tuesdays and Fridays

The lighthouse walk

Forty minutes along the headland to the light, with a basket from the kitchen for the way back as the day goes.

Two fishermen sorting the catch into stacked orange crates on the quay

06:30 · Thursdays

The market with Rosa

Follow the cook along the quay at first light, choose the fish, and eat what you chose at one o'clock.

Around the harbour

Marina di Serra is four streets deep. Everything here is ten minutes from the door, and most of it is downhill.

  • Nets spread to dry along the quay, small boats moored beyond
    Nets on the mole
  • The deck of a fishing boat piled with yellow nets and blue crates
    Back at half past nine
  • An old fisherman in a white vest mending red nets on the pier
    Tonino and the red nets
  • Stone steps climbing into a dark arched passage between plastered walls
    Arco della Dogana
  • A narrow stone alley of shallow steps under a clear sky
    The hundred steps
  • A man climbing a narrow street of orange and ochre houses
    Via del Forno, uphill
  • Washing hung from a window of a yellow stucco house
    Washing day, Via Lunga
  • Crates of cherries, peaches and melons at a street market
    Thursday market
  • The breakwater from above, white rocks in deep green water
    The breakwater
  • Rows of small wooden boats moored in the basin, seen from above
    Gozzi in the old basin
  • A yellow umbrella and two chairs on a small rock in the sea
    A rock for two
  • Swimmers in the sea below a wooded limestone cliff
    Under Monte Serra
  • A blue and orange trawler with its rigging, tied up at a weathered pier
    The trawler quay
  • A concrete landing below a green cliff, sun glittering on the water
    The ferry landing
  • Fishing nets and floats in plastic crates on a wooden dock
    Floats and crates

Before you come

Anything not answered here, ask Davide at the desk or by telephone on +39 0833 000 000, any day from eight to eight.

When are check-in and check-out?

Rooms are ready from two in the afternoon. Leave when the ferry or the train suits you; bags wait on the ground floor as long as you need.

Where do we leave the car?

The old town is closed to cars. Leave yours at the station car park for €12 a day; we collect you and your bags with the hand cart, which is quicker than it sounds.

Can we bring children or a dog?

Children are welcome in the harbour rooms and the tower. Well-mannered dogs stay in the harbour rooms for €20 a night.

Is the house step-free?

One harbour room on the first floor is reached by lift and has a step-free shower. The roof terrace and the ladder are reached by stairs only.

When is the house open?

From the middle of March to the start of November. In winter the kitchen closes and the masons come back.

Can we come for dinner without staying?

Guests of the house have a table every night. Others can write to us after two in the afternoon for the tables left on the mole.

What if our plans change?

Cancel free of charge until fourteen days before you arrive; after that we keep the first night.

We came for two nights and stayed until the figs were ripe.

From the guest book

Ines and Marco, the tower, September

Write to the house

Tell us your dates and the kind of quiet you are after. Rosa or Davide answers within a day.

A fishing boat at anchor on still water under a pink evening sky
Address
Example Mole 1, Marina di Serra
Telephone
+39 0833 000 000
Email
stay@ostro.example
  • By train

    Serra station, then eight minutes on foot down Via del Forno. We meet you with the hand cart.

  • By ferry

    The morning boat from the islands lands four minutes from the door.

  • By car

    Leave it at the station car park; the old town is closed to traffic.

A request for a stay

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